Little Black Book

NYC: CHRIS HABANA

Editors Note: Worked really hard on this post, probably one of my most time consuming posts as I had to transcribe the whole interview with Chris and often getting distracted by the actually sounds in the recording - transporting me back to NYC. Yes I miss it very much. Maybe someone can get me over there for NYFW in February? Sponsors or any takers? Hope you enjoy this interview and post as much as I did, seriously one of my favourite designers, he's such a down to earth guy! Can't wait to hang next September for NYFW if not earlier!

On the last day of my stay in the lovely New York City, I had the pleasure of visiting the amazing NY based designer Chris Habana in his studio where he kindly accepted to do a candid interview, so off I went to his apartment in Alphabet City which doubles as his studio space.
For those of you who haven't heard of CHRIS HABANA or his recent diffusion range My Enemy by CHRISHABANA; Chris mixes dark, gothic elements with geometric elements while effectively uses juxtaposition in texture, mediums and shape in his designs to create a unique, strong and defined aesthetic.



I've been thinking about this necklace ever since I first laid eyes on it in Chris' studio! So stunning!
















Little Black Book: How did you start your label Chris Habana and what made you decide to design jewellery?
CH: I have been doing design my whole life, in some way shape or form. I always thought I wanted to do clothing for a while there and actually when I started the jewellery I actually did a few clothing pieces here and there. Everything kind of happened organically. I wanted to get my stuff out there, clothing was harder - because of size runs. I was always attracted to jewellery only because I felt that it's such a good medium because its almost like you're trying to get your message across in some little vechile that will be on your body. Trying to make an impact with something so small always fascinated me. Making little accessories here and there, I was never formally trained in jewellery design. I began designing small jewellery pieces made from recycled materials.
It wasn't until 2007 that I decided that I wanted to make jewellery. Proper jewellery, my version of proper jewellery.





My new beloved Chris Habana Swan Song pearl ring. Thanks Chris!!!

Little Black Book: I can see a sort of resemblance of Chris Habana with Pamela Love, its not the same but its sort of the same aesthetic....
Chris Habana: There's a few of us in New York right now that are kind of like we're the same but different and Pamela Love is definitely one for sure. Eddy Bourgo, jewels who does bejewelled, Bliss who does body chains and Zana Bayne who does harnesses. There's a good collective of jewellery designers who don't want to do 'proper' jewellery. Oddly enough a number of them also do shows during fashion week which is odd because jewellery designers usually don't do that.

If you want something dark and gothic but a bit more bohemian she's your girl, but if you want something dark and gothic but a bit more on the clean minimal side then you go to me (Chris Habana).
I kinda like that there's this collective of people, I feel like its more like a united front than just one person trying to take on the world. It's all about strength in numbers and its more effective to be part of a movement than a one man show. You can do the one man show thing but its just harder to get your message out there. All of us have individual voices within what we do anyway.

Little Black Book: Do you have a specific target audience in mind when you design?
When I starting thinking about what a girl version of me would wear or what a guy version of me would wear, I really started to focus properly on designing. I definitely feel like i have a audience now, they're definitely younger, definitely more downtown and edgy. I've actually split the label into two: CHRIS HABANA - still very down and edgy while the design and pricepoint is more elevated and the design is definitely more elevated and directional, graphic and linear which I'm known for.
My Enemy by CHRIS HABANA which started out with Urban Outfitters last season and this time, the brand kind of exploded - while its dark and edgy its very in your face, middle finger, very St Marks, kind of punk, more in your face interpretations of goth and pop. That line is meant to be for everyone. We're kinda hitting across the board, the people we wanna hit. At the end of the day we do have a target audience edgy and young, street and hip. But as I'm evolving, my design evolves so I don't really design for an audience...




Little Black Book: Where can we find your designs online?
Chris Habana online store, OAK, I don't like Mondays, Seven NYC, and in Australia, Zahara Mai and Bleecker St

What are your favourite pieces from your new collection?
This season we thought 'what about we move to fragmented pieces' and so there is a more facated focusing on statement necklaces - it is definitely more colourful, more fun, less romantic. The namesake line combines metalwork with beading and acrylic. My favourite piece is definitely (pictured below) necklace with super neon pink acrylic crosses which come off from it - such a stunning and unique piece.



How does your SS12 collection differ from your current collection?
SS11/12 is (definitely) more romantic, I was at a place in my life where I had just became single with my boyfriend of 2 years. I began drawing off from my experiences of my romance, (using) rose and thorn imagery and broken heartedness.

For SS12 I had grown sick of drawing from relationships so I started having fun, my life led me to going out all the time and I began channelling my raver days. Going out all the time, the new collection now is more influenced by a party than any kind of destruction or heartache. It's still strong and aggresive but a little bit more light.


Where do you find inspiration:
Super personal for sure, as much as I have a inspiration wall its not like I'll pick an image - though that will happen from time to time. I'm not one that will stroll the Chelsea galleries.
The people that I am in contact with inspire me for sure. All that I think is more organic, I think if someone were to think in the terms where 'okay lets get inspired' thats never a good recipes - for me at least its more important to draw from whats happening to me. Like I said I started going out more and having fun and not taking things so seriously. And then I started thinking about what I love from that moment and then I start pulling tears but I never come up with lofty inspirations, I'm not like that.




Dress anyone in the world, dead or alive, past and present - who would it be?
Oh god everyone asks that! First of all, I always say and this is true, that I don't really neccessarily think of a person when I design, its kinda like what I like to wear. But recently, my aspiration of having my designs on someone actually came true. Bullett Magazine did a feature on Parker Poisy and she wore one of my necklaces and I went absolutely crazy cos I'm such a fan of hers. I guess she would be someone I'd like to dress. There are people who I super admire. Honestly there are alot of designers I admire, I would love for


Are you a gold or gunmetal type of guy?
My namesake for sure is gunmetal but I do love to mix it up a bit. I like a dark, grey kind of finish to things. I've been liking gold lately though. When you do clothing you literally have your choice of so many palettes and materials and stuff but when you do jewellery you're more limited, I mean you can still go crazy but in terms of the medium if you're doing metal works theres only a few plates you can neccessarily choose from. So it's somewhat difficult to find kind of new ways of doing things, but I've always been attracted to gunmetal. When I started the line officially in 2007, I've always done gunmetal and I feel like people are doing that now, its kinda of nice to know that you've always done it. I always gravitated towards a really dark gunmetal.


Describe your label in three words.
Simple, serious, kidding.

Chris Habana range $90 - $500
My Enemy by CHRISHABANA range $20 - $120

xx

Introducing Chelsea Wolfe: Ἀποκάλυψις

 

Editors note: One of my favourite artists right now, her sound is so unique, so haunting yet like a siren song just draws you in. I discovered Chelsea Wolfe actually through Twitter. I would like to thank Chelsea for taking time out of her busy schedule for this lovely interview. I hope you guys enjoy reading it as much as I did interviewing the talented Ms Wolfe! And go buy her new album Ἀποκάλυψις  which can be purchased from PenduNYC xx

Wolfe's sound is raw, dirging doom-folk with hints of black metal, deep blues and minimal synthesizer music, but it’s as prone to triumph as it is despair. Her voice is both haunting and seemingly haunted, though whether by angels or demons  is unclear. And her lyrics reflect an obsession not only with life’s murkier moments, but the unlikely truths and beauty they so often reveal.

Little Black Book: Hi Chelsea, hope you are well. You've just wrapped up your CMJ tour around NYC, I'm quite jealous that I missed out! I was actually in NYC a few weeks ago! How was it performing in different locations around in Brooklyn?
I really like New York. I finally get it. And we had a lot of fun at CMJ, playing in Manhattan and Brooklyn in the same night, two different shows.


What was your childhood like growing up in a small town like Sacramento, CA compared to Los Angeles where you're based now? 

I grew up on the outskirts of Sacramento, in the older part of town, across the street from the train tracks and near a big library and old park. There was a bear they kept in a small cage in the park and this kid campaigned and raised enough money to get him transferred to a sanctuary. He was my hero back then. I spent a lot of time in the library. It had domed ceilings and the building went in a circle. Somehow I still always got lost. I liked choosing books by their title. Northern California has a different feel of course, but what all of California has to offer is beauty in nature. The big trees and the mountains and the coastline.

You've managed to capture so many people with your dark yet powerfully bewitching sound. How would you describe your style? Who were your main inspirations and how would you describe your own aesthetic? 
I'm inspired by visuals, films, words.. The way a filmmaker like Ingmar Bergman or Lars Von Trier can show you a landscape, it can rip your heart out.. I wanted to make something like that but with sounds.


You've just released  your second album Ἀποκάλυψις, what were your main inspirations for this album? How would you compare it to say your debut album The Grime & the Glow. 
End times theories, the ends of things, biblical language.. It has a larger feel and vision and heavier sound than The Grime and the Glow.



ON THE NEW ALBUM: "The title of the album, Apokalypsis, stands for revelations, the apocalypse, and lifting of the veil. That was kind of what the album represents for me. The word "epiphany" kind of stands out for me when I think about revelations, like a realization; that moment of realizing something that really makes sense. For me, that's what the album cover represents—the whited-out eyes and the expression. It represents a sense of epiphany or revelations. Sort of like the moment right before the meteor hit." - Chelsea Wolfe

Alot of your track titles have references to demons, darkness or suggest interest in the occult. What inspires you? Do you have interest in the occult? 
It's more an interest in the spirit realm and the visual ideas and representation of traditional religion.. The reality and possibility of daily interaction with the spirit world, whether dark or light.


You have a huge fanbase globally. Do you ever wake up and pinch yourself? 
I could handle more! I think my fanbase has a lot of growing to do, and I want to share my music with more and more people. I am happy to be on a good path though..
 

I like how you manage your own twitter account and engage directly with your fans. Do you think this has helped your success?
No, because it's only something I started doing recently. I have this sort of distance I keep.. like, it takes me a long time to let people get close to me.. But something changed, I realized how much my fans mean to me and the music and I wanted to connect with them in a new way. 

You've been on tour off and on for a few months now, performing from Norway to France to Canada and of course California and New York City. What has been your most memorable performance experience? Do you prefer performing on home turf or abroad (which crowd is crazier?)
Definitely prefer playing somewhere new. I love Scandinavia.. long drives through amazing landscapes and really kind, beautiful people. It rained a lot when we were there. Again, I love playing in New York.. Sometimes it's not even about which country or state I'm in, but just the actual venue and vibe of the crowd.. If everyone gives out good energy, and the sound is good and the lighting is intriguing, it all comes together in a magical way, and those are the best shows.

What was the last book you read?
I'm currently reading The Rainbow by D.H. Lawrence.. I love the way he describes nature so primal, simple, intense and beautiful. Sometimes I don't even pay that much attention to what's going on in his books, I just wait for moments of description that really inspire me. 

I've seen your recent editorial with Interview Magazine  - it was eerie, powerful yet seductive. Where was it shot? And did you have a favourite look from the shoot?
Thank you.. that was a lot of fun, we had a great team including Jenni Hensler as stylist, Anna Dobos photographer, and hair and makeup by Dana Delaney and Gabe Jenkins, respectively. We shot at the Griffith Park caves in LA, which is an incredible spot. I was changing outfits in the cave, scaring off little children. I really loved the Iris van Herpen pieces.. structured like shells.. I also loved the leather arm-pieces by Logan Neitzel and the cuff-spike by Mordekai. I love Mordekai, I wear it as often as possible! Amazing metal pieces. And the black gloves.. A hint of medical aesthetic. Jenni does a great job at understanding my influences in fashion and pulling amazing shit together!

Do you have a separate style when you are on stage to when you are off or is what we see on stage the real Chelsea Wolfe?
I'm often borrowing clothes from a designer or stylist to wear onstage, but if I owned some of that stuff I would definitely wear it daily! I typically dress in a way in which I can move.. I love fabrics with stretch and draped layers, and jewelry that doubles as a weapon. I'm the same onstage though, since I'm playing guitar and moving around, I refuse to wear anything that limits that. Sometimes I'll torture myself though and wear something difficult to play in, because I want the visual. I never dress extreme simply to dress extreme though, I only dress how I'm feeling or in a way that represents what I'm inspired by currently. 

Your fashion has been described between a mix of goth and folk. How would you describe your style? Do you have any favourite designers who you adore?
My favorites are Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, I loved Rick Owens SS12 - I would wear ALL of that.. Margiela is my all-time favorite.. so alien and human at the same time, almost ugly but so perfect. I'd kill for a pair of those black Tabi boots! I also love Damir Doma, AF Vandevorst, and again Mordekai, and I love a lot of stuff from All Saints. I'm into a really simple monochrome outfit with amazing shoes. I want clear plastic shoes like the ones Cheap Monday put out for I think SS11, and I've seen some around lately too. I love platforms and height, even though I'm already really tall.  I think my "style" is something in-between nordic, white trash, and softer, maybe elegant, and nature-inspired.

I heard that you are already working on a third album (you work hard girl). Can you give any more details on its progress? 
Just taking time right now to write songs for the next album.. I have some already written and we're working with a really rad producer to help bring the songs to a new level. That's something different for me. I had originally had a title chosen for the third album, but decided to scratch it and keep it untitled for now because the songs started to outgrow the title. 

Do you have plans on coming out to Australia any time soon? We would love to have you here, I'm a huge fan myself. 
I would love to.. I'm sure it's in the cards, we must be patient! 

Lastly, what were the three most memorable things you did this week.  
CMJ.. the Life or Death PR showcase was the most fun show.. so many good bands and so much family. I also loved everything Brooklyn Vegan had going on at Public Assembly. Third.. flew home from New York to LA and slept for like two days in my big, old, dusty house.

 

 

 

Chelsea Wolfe
Get More: Chelsea Wolfe, MTV Hive

Image credits: Interview Magazine editorial Jenni Hensler as stylist, Anna Dobos photographer, and hair and makeup by Dana Delaney and Gabe Jenkins

xx

Get infected by Carabott

Now I might have mentioned a few posts ago that I would be introducing to you an amazing Sydney based designer by the name of Adam Carabott and alas I have not forgotten. It was actually my friend Emily Fitzgerald of Emerald Couture who had first introduced me to Adam's work and I instantly fell in love. Carabott has a distinct dark aesthetic, where studs and spikes can be found throughout his debut collection as there is a definite architectural characteristic that prevades through his designs -this is due to his background. And yes this one is for the boys also, Carabott makes clothes for boys and girls. Adam Carabott has kindly allowed me to interview him (see below)

Carabott for Emerald Couture

Little Black Book: Describe what Carabott symbolises? Who is your typical Carabott consumer?
Carabott…. The Unknown, The Sophisticated, The Desire, The Materiality, The Unusual.... The Addiction… The brand is no just about fashion but a expression of the materiality and texture of clothing, with a emphasis on the artistic implementation into design to create pieces which conflict with traditional fabrications techniques and produce plantations on the human body which become a skin that manipulates it's wearer. It is more directed towards people who appreciate clothing of expression and individuality, which is completely deranged from the norm.

Little Black Book: What is your background? What made you decide to head into fashion design and have you gained a new angle from your skills as an architect?
I have completed my BA and Masters in Architecture and have been working in the industry for 5 years now. Fashion on the other hand is completely new to me. With no prior experience I took a leap into the world, which has always been a passion of mine.  I have always been strong in design and my architecture where my designs reflected the expression of materiality in buildings. I have manipulated these techniques I developed into fashion, building garments as I would an architectural model where I am very visual in designing and using the body form as my canvas I develop 3d sketches experimenting and developing garments that become precedents for each design concept.

Little Black Book:  Can you give Little Black Book readers a exclusive sneak peek at your next collection?
Well it is in my mind at the moment… though it most definitely will be black and fantastic. The collection will definitely be sourcing the most inappropriate materials to push my boundaries in creating avant-garde garments that distinguish my abilities in design.

Little Black Book: What has been your biggest inspiration/s for your designs?
I’m inspired by the dark side, the unimaginable, the taboo’s of the  world…. My mood, my thoughts, my hands, manipulate the pieces I create.

Little Black Book: Who do you think perfectly epitomises and best represents Carabott as a label?
One individual who I aspire to and absolutely adore would be Gareth Pugh amazing designer, amazing presentations and his pushing the fashion world through amazing pieces that definitely think outside the square.

Little Black Book:  I'm very excited for your fashion spread in Tangent Magazine, can you tell us more or do we all just have to wait and see?
Well this was an amazing opportunity that I would never have thought I would be approached to do so early in my career.
I was given a theme by Heather (the editor of tangent) and had to create a gown in a week. I managed to pull off an amazing piece that was created out of fly screen, nails and feathers and of course it was black. I am as excited as you to see the images from the shoot.

Little Black Book:  Do you have a favourite piece from your debut collection?
I would have to say my favorite piece would be the studded jeans. These definitely are a expression in them selves and the texture of the mixing of studs created a amazing piece which definitely takes a pair of jeans to another level.

Little Black Book:  Finally what are your thoughts on the rise of the fashion blogger in the world of fashion?
I love it, I find that they are the best source to get the latest trends, newest ideas and have provided a new way to source information in the fashion world. The online accessibility of blogs gives it’s a better alternative to the fashion magazine which exposes it to a much larger audience.

 Below are some images from a shoot I styled using Carabott pieces:

Carabott studded & spiked jeans


Carabott studded leather jacket.

Carabott skirt


Carabott dress

xx

Phoenix rising

Phoenix Keating is aspiring and truly spectacular up and coming designer based in Sydney. At the tender age of 19 (he's a year younger than me!! How cute!!) Phoenix has worked as an assistant with make up artist Jody Oliver as well as other leading designers. Recently Keating has completed this twenty piece one of a kind capsule collection which has really intrigued me. Seemingly influenced by the late Alexander Lee McQueen, clowns, textures and tone the collection utilises a mix of delicate and tough fabrics and essentially is a strong cohesive collection.
Latex, laser cutting, fur, leather, prints. Phoenix Keating's debut one off collection has it all. Definitely one to watch xx

Little Black Book: Describe your collection.
PK The collection is a mix of unusual fabric and strange imperfect cuts. I hope to convey a certain avant garde quality, but also a very wearable aspect.

Little Black Book: Describe what a Phoenix Keating girl embodies.
PK She is elegant, unique, but sexy. She sees things differently to other girls as she loves to delve into the old-world silhouettes of the 50's, 60's and 70's. She is above all striking and powerful. As she walks by people can not help but to look at her. That's the Phoenix Keating girl.  

Little Black Book: What inspired your current collection?
PK This collection was inspired by a blind cat. The cat was very old and completely blind. However it was able to make its own way around the whole house or the garden, when its owner held its eyes up to mine and I felt a very powerful being was inside the old cat. So I transformed the cat into a blind woman, and thus the collection "If the price of looking had been blindness, I would have looked" was born.

Little Black Book: What inspires you as a designer?
PK There isn't one thing that inspires me as a designer, things like the cat, pop out at me and force me to put pencil to paper and design a collection. The collection evolves and grows in my mind until it is born. 

 



Little Black Book: Where did you study fashion and has it helped you as a designer?
PK I did courses during high school like community courses on pattern making and a certificate 2 course in production at Tafe, however, i haven't done a proper university course on design.

Little Black Book: Some of the styling in the lookbook resemble and are reminiscent of Alexander McQueen's last collection, was it an ode to him?
PK That is lovely of you to say, I have always looked up to and admired McQueen, I have also drawn parallels between McQueen and myself and i think this is simply because both of our styles are quite different. 

Little Black Book: Describe what Phoenix Keating (the label) represents.
PK I hope that the label will be viewed as a show of creativity and uniqueness. Something that you can only wear on the best of occasions. 

 


Little Black Book: Where do you see yourself in 3 years time.
PK In 3 years I hope to have a functional company.

Little Black Book: Many of your pieces can be called 'very Lady Gaga'. Were you inspired by her or any other icons in any way?
PK I designed this collection before I had even heard of Gaga. although i respect her and her impact on society, I definitely did not make this collection with her in mind.

Little Black Book: Are there any other designers (Australian or international) that inspire you or pleases you aesthetically?
PK John Galliano is amazing, he really is someone who i love and who really inspires me to be open minded. Also Karl Lagerfeld has been my favourite for years. His attention to class is magnificent.

Little Black Book: What is your favourite piece/s from the collection?
PK I have to say my gorilla jacket; I think it would make any girl look and feel amazing. Like really amazing.

Little Black Book: Thank you for your time
PK No worries

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xx